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Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 1.

T. L. MELONE, Decd.

J. S. MELONE, Administratrix. PLAITING ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

No. 403.369. Patented May 14, 1889.

Nv PETERS. Photo-Lithography. Wilihinglnll. 0. c.

(ModeL) 4 Sheets-Shee-t 2.

T. L. MEL E, Decd. v

J. S.-MELONE, Administratrix. PLAITING ATTAGHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

No. 403,359. v Patented May 14. 1889.

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PLAITING ATTAGHMENT FOR SEWING MAGEINES.

Patented May 14, 1889,

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

THOMAS L. MELONE, OF OHILLIOOTHE, OHIO; J ULIETTE S. MELONE ADMIN- ISTRATRIX OF SAID THOMAS L. MELONE, DECEASED.

PLAITING ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N0. 403,359, dated May 14:, 1889.

Application filed May 17, 1883, Serial No. 95,190. (ModeL) To all whom it may concern;

Be it known that I, THOMAS L. MELONE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chillicothe, in the county of Ross, and the State of Ohio, have invented a new and useful Im- 'the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, in which Figure 1 represents the left side of my plaiting attachment, showing the plaitingblades bearing against a guiding-piece of the presser-foot. Fig. 2 represents the righthand side, with the blades in the same position. Fig. 3 is a top view. Fig. 4 is an end view. Fig. 5 is a detail view of the L-shaped lever for giving motion to the plaiter. Fig. 6 is a detail view of the plaiting-blades and the double guide-plate to which they are at tached. Fig. 7 is a detail view of the main frame and the presser-foot, also showing the slotted lever-support and the spring-hinge. Fig. 8 is a perspective view of my plaiter. Fig. 9 is a ratchet-wheel of modified form. Figs. 10, 11, and 12 are respectively plan and edge views of the single, he double-box and the single-box plaits.

The invention consists in a plaiting attachment for sewing-machines, and is designed to throw a plain knife-plait, a ruching-plait, a single, double, or triple box-plait, or as many plaits as may be desired, thrown in one direction, with a corresponding number in the opposite direction, the size and shape of such pl'aits being determined by a ratchet-wheel and operating mechanism con nected therewith, hereinafter more fully described.

Referring to the drawings, A represents the main frame of the plaiter, attached near its center to the foot-bar of a sewing-machine by means of screw a, and bent downward in such a manner as to form a presser-foot, as shown at a. The needle-hole is at a. From the Presser-foot the main frame curves upward and outward, forming thereby sufficient room for making large plaits on its under side. It also serves as a guide for the plaiting-blade when making the reverse plait. To the under side of this guide is riveted a thin steel plate, a. A portion of this extension or arm of the presser-foot is cut away, forming thereby a guide for turning under and sewing on a heading, the goods passing through the opening a" between the presser-foot a and the steel plate a.

A is an extension of the main plate A, having a piece, A", securely attached to the back thereof. The piece A is placed at sufficient distance from A to admit the lever B being pivoted between them at b. The lever Bis L-shaped, and derives its motion from the needle-bar by means of a yoke embracing the needle clamp-nut of the said bar. It is provided also with a pawl, I), having a spring, which pawl engages with the teeth of a ratchet-wheel, O, on the downward stroke of the needle-bar. The ratchet-wheel 0 turns on the axle b, and is secured thereon by a thumb-screw and a washer of felt. Interposed between the ratchet-wheel O and the piece A" is a metallic washer, D, having a limited motion on the axle b. The said washer D extends above the wheel and is provided with a tooth, cl,.for engaging in notches on the upper part of the piece A. The edge of the washer D, (shown at D) is enlarged and forms a shield for the ratchet-wheel O. Openings are formed in this ratchet-wheel within its circumference, and the teeth upon its outer periphery are continuous, as hereinafter more fully described.

By adjusting the tooth (Z in the notches of the piece A the shield may be made to uncover one or more of the teeth of the wheel 0 and permit its engagement with the pawl 19'. By placing the shield D of the washer D in front of the row of notches the pawl will ride on the shield the full length of its stroke, and the ratchet wheel will remain stationary. When the tooth d is placed in the first notch of the piece A, one cog of the ratchet-wheel is exposed to the action of the pawl; by placing it in the second, two cogs are exposed; in the third, three cogs, and so on, by which means the ratchetwheel is revolved and the distance between the plaits determined, as hereinafter described.

Secured to the left side of the piece A of the main frame A is a thin steel spring, E, which supports a piece, E, upon which swings a lever, E, by means of a connecting and pivoting pin, 6. The L-shaped lever B, before referred to, is provided with a lug, l), which moves in a slot of the piece E and bears against the lever E, the said lever being connected with the plaiting-blades at e. The lever E is also provided with an arm, G, having a projection, g, against which the lug b bears 011 the downward movement of the needle-bar, as shown in Fig. 1. Notches are placed upon the upper part of the lever E", in which a tooth of the lever G engages, by which means the size of the plait is regulated, as the enlarging or decreasing the open space between the said lever G and the lever E alters the throw of the blade outward from the needle, and consequentlydiminishes or increases the size of the plait.

As it is necessary to form the plaits only at certain intervals in the sewing, I place upon the right-h an d side of the piece E a tripping-lever, F,which bears against the ratchet-wheel C and forces the piece E outward. As long as the tripping-lever rides upon the side of the ratchet-wheel, the connection between the levers B and E remains broken. Openings of any desired number and size are formed in the ratchet-wheel 0, into which the lever F drops by force of the spring E, establishing thereby the connection of the levers B and E. While this connection exists the blade thrusts a plait at each successive stitch of the machine, and when it is broken the blades remain at rest until the levers are reconnected. It will be seen from this that I am enabled to throw one plait and then rest the plaitingblade as long as I desire; or I may repeat the plait at each stitch or every other stitch or every third or fourth stitch by changing the number and size of the slot-s of the ratchetwheel.

Attached to and extending outward from the main frame A is a guide, ll, which supports and directs the travel of the slide ll,as shown in Fig. 4.

J J are two pendent lugs, through which a pivot, j, passes, securing the guide-piece K, to which the blades 7s 7e are attached, the said guide-piece with the blade being adapted to turn upon this pivot. The guide-piece K is folded on itself in such a manner that it will admit the goods from opposite sides, and constitute either a right or left hand gage or guide, as the operator may desire.

The blades 7: 7c are attached to the upper and lower folds of the guide-piece K, and extend backward toward the needle. Their ends pressing together are provided with teeth to engage the goods, which, in plaiting, passes between them and is embraced by them. The blades have a constantly-fixed relation to each other, and always move together, carrying the goods to be plaited between them,

thus constituting what may be termed a double blade.

Hinged to the outer edge of the guide II is a vibrating guide-plate, M, which is held at an angle with the said guide II by an interposing spring, m. The forward end of M engages in a slot in an upward projection of the guidepiece K, and by means of the pressure exerted by the spring m holds the points of the blades 7r; l2 close against the under side of the steel plate a. In this posit-ion when the blades 76 71; are thrust forward they fold a plait under the blades, the said plait having the appearance in the completed work of having been thrust from the rear, and which I therefore designate the reverse-plait. By bearing on the vibrating guide-plate M the points of the blades will be depressed until they come in contact with the bed-plate, when, if they are thrust forward, the plait will be folded above the blades,which I term the direct-plait. The vibrating guide plate M is depressed by a pin, or, placed upon the side of the ratchet-wheel 0. Like the openings in the ratchet-wheel, there may be one or more of the pins 12, as is desired. It will be seen, therefore, that the direction of the plait to be thrown may be determined by the travel of the wheel and the location of the pins and slots, and that by providing a number of wheels with differently arranged pins and slots any variety of plait may be produced. 011 the rear end of the vibrating guide-plate M, pivoted at one end, is a movable piece, 0, against which the pin it bears when it is operating the vibrating guide plate M. By throwing the free end of 0 outward the pin passes without coming in contact with M, in which case the plaits will all be laid in the same direction.

The operation of my plaiter is as follows: In order to accomplish the greatest run of work as to size and variety of plaits, it is necessary for the wheel 0 to have an even-numbered set of teeth, one-half of which number is divisible by the numbers 2, 3, 4:, and (5, the latter being the greatest number that can be covered by a full stroke of the pawl in a wheel with seventy-two teeth. For this reason I adoptthe numbers 24, 48, and 72 for the number of teeth on the different wheels, as best suited to my requirements; but I do not limit myself to any number. It is also necessary that the openings in the wheel (1 should be located on or opposite even-numbered teeth, so that the drop takes place when the needle-bar is at the end of its downward stroke. This drop establishes the connection with the plaiting-blades, and the said blades will throw a plait each stitch until the connection is broken by the side movement of the ratchet-wheel, so that the number of consecutive plaits is determined by the length of the openings in the wheel 0, and also by the number of teeth being engaged by the pawl. Any number of these ratchet-wheels may accompany a plaiter, each wheel having the pins and openings differently distributed. These pins and openings in the various wheels may be enlarged so as to be operated difierently and to form a great variety of plaits.

To further illustrate the mode of operation, take a 7 2-toothed wheel in its simplest form with openings. in its opposite sides and one pin located near one of the openings, so that the vibrating guide-plate on will be depressed when the connection between the levers B and E is affected by the opening farthest from the pin. The operator commences with the needle-bar at the bottom of its stroke and the connection established through the opening nearest the pin, the shield D set so as to engage one tooth of the wheel 0. As the needle-bar moves upward, the blades are thrust toward the needle, forming the reverse plait under the blades. The needle then descends and catches the plait at the proper place. The blades then draw back to the position farthest from the needle at the same time that the needle-bar returns to its upper position, the strokes of the needle and plaiter being thus completed at the same time. The next downward stroke of the needle-bar forces the ratch et-wheel ahead one notch, and the connecting-lug is thrown out of the opening and rides against the side of the Wheel, thereby breaking the connection and resting the blades. The lever B, carrying the pawl, and the needle-bar moving at the same time, it is apparent that with each stitch of the machine the Wheel C will be moved forward one notch. After the wheel 0 has moved thirty-five notches, the top of the plait is formed, and the pin it has come in contact with the piece 0, the blades are pressed down upon the bed of the sewing-machine, and with the downward stroke of the thirty-sixth stitch the connecting-lug drops into the second opening, and the connection is again formed. The lifting of the needle-bar now thrusts the blades toward the needle, as before, except that the plait is laid above the blades, forming the direct plait, the result being a box-plait with thirty-sixstitches on its face. The next thirty-six stitches make the space between the plaits the same length as the face of the former plait. Another plait is now made in the same direction as the first, completing the box upon the other side of the goods. Now, if the shield D is moved, exposing two teeth to the action of the pawl, the same operation will be repeated, except that there will be but eighteen stitches to each plait, the wheel moving twice as fast relatively to the needlebar as when one tooth was exposed. If three teeth are exposed, the wheel will travel three times as fast as when one tooth was exposed, and a plait will be made to every twelve stitches. If four teeth are exposed, a plait will be made at every nine stitches; if six teeth, at every six stitches. In this instance it would not do to expose five teeth of the wheel 0, as that number not being a common factor of 72 or 36 the regularity of the drop would be destroyed.

If it is desired to make a still smaller plait, four openings may be made in the wheel 0, dividing it-into quarters, in which case two, three, or six teeth may be exposed, the numbers four and five not being factors; or six or more openings may be made, shortening the plait still more.

To throw a double box-plait, the openings in the wheel 0 are lengthened so that the connection is continued until the second stitch is made; and so, also, if a triple box-plait is desired the opening is lengthened to cover three stitches, the number of plaits thrown in one direction depending on the length of the opening. It will be seen that the trippinglever F, which breaks the connection, is movable to and from the center of the wheel 0. Therefore openings of several lengths may be made in one wheel, the one nearest the periphery covering one tooth and increasing in size as it approaches the center, or vice versa. Then by moving the lever F to or from the center of the wheel the different-sized openings may be employed, making single, double, triple, or quadruple box-plaits-that is, from one, two, three, or four plaits in one direction on the top of the blade, and then make the same number of plaits in the opposite direction. So, too, the pin a may be lengthened out until it forms the segment of a circle, in which case it will hold the vibrating guideplate M down while a series of plaits is made. This segment form of the pins is necessary where the openings are much enlarged. An illustration of this segment is shown in Fig. 9.

If it is desired to make a plait at every stitch of the machine, it may be accomplished by placing the tripping-lever F in an opening of the wheel 0 and then covering all the teeth of said wheel by the shield D. These plaits may be thrown in either direction by placing the wheel in such a position that it depresses or releases the slide M, as is desired.

If desired, the ratchet-wheel may be removed, so that a plait can be thrown with each stitch of the machine.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new therein, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In a plaiting attachment for sewing-machines, the combination, substantially as hereinbefore described, of the presser-foot having an upwardly and outwardly extending curved arm provided with a cut-away portion and a guideeplate secured to the curved arm, with the pivoted plaiting-blades, substantially as set forth.

2. In a plaiting attachment for sewing-machines, the combination of the presser-foot with the pivoted plaiting-blade of two parts, and a guide-piece whereon both of said parts are fixed, said blade having means of vibration and reciprocation, as described, and adapted to carry the strip between the two portions of the blade and to form alternate plaits against said presser-foot and the bedplate of the sewing-machine.

3. In a plaiter, the combination of the ratchet wheel having graduated openings within its circumference, and the pivoted tripping-lever engaging said openings, said lever being pivoted so that it may be swung toward or from the center of the wheel, for the purpose substantially as described.

4. In a plaiting attachment for sewing-machines, a ratchetwheel provided with open ings, and a pin or its equivalent for the purpose of depressing; the plaiting-blade, in combination with said blade, and a vibrating guide-plate having a connecting-piece, as set forth.

5. In a plaiter, the combination, with the plaiting-blade, of a ratchet-wheel having graduated openings for the purpose of breaking and restoring connection between working parts of the attachment and provided with a pin or its equivalent for depressing the plaiting-blade, and means for connecting said pin and blade, all substantially as set forth.

6. In a plaiter, the combination of a ratchetwheel having openings, as described, and a pin for depressing a vibrating guide-plate, with the said vibrating guide-plate provided with a movable bearing-piece for regulating the contact of the pin and the said guideplate, the plaitin g-blade, and their connectingpiece, as and for the purpose set forth.

7. In a plaiter, the combination of a ratchetwheel having openings within its circumference and a pin upon its side, for the purposes described, with a plaiting-blade connected with a vibrating guide-plate, and said guideplate provided on its under side withaspring to automatically elevate the said plate, as set forth.

8. In a plaiter, the combination of the vibrating guide-plate M, hinged to the main frame, as described, and provided with spring m, and a movable piece, 0, with the plaitingblades below and the ratchet-wheel above, the said wheel being provided with means for depressing the vibrating guide-plate, as and for the purpose set forth.

9. In a plaiter, the combination of the ratchet-wheel having means for depressing a vibrating guide-plate, and the said vibrating guide-plate, with the slide having downwardly-projecting lugs, and a pivot-pin for carrying the plaiting-blade, as set forth.

10. In a plaiter, the combination of a ratchetwheel having its teeth formed on its outer edge, the axis on which it turns, a shield for covering the teeth of said wheel and pivoted on said axis and provided with a tooth or projection, and a series of ratchet teeth with which said tooth engages to retain the shield in a determined position, with a lever adapted to receive motion from the needle-bar and provided with a pawl having a depressingspring, so that it may ride upon the shield and turn the wheel when brought into engagement with its teeth and actuate the plaiting-blade, substantially as set forth.

11. The combination, with the plaitingblade, the ratchet-wheel, and their connecting mechanism, of the main frame A, having an extension,A with notches in its upper part, and the shield D, extending above the ratchetwheel and provided with a tooth, (Z, for engaging in the notches and for regulating the rotation of the ratchet-wheel and the consequent frequency of the plaits.

12. In a plaiter, the combination, with the ratchet-wheel supported on aflexible upright carrying a slotted plate and having openings within its circumference, as described, of mechanism for receiving motion from the needle-bar and transmitting it to the plaitingblade, with an independent adjustable tripping-lever adapted to ride upon the surface of the wheel and to connect and disconnect the operative portions of the attachment, as set forth.

13. In a plaiter, the combination, with a main frame having means of attachment to the presser-bar and provided with a flexible upright support carrying a slotted plate having a trippingdever for engaging with the ratchetwheel, of a lever adapted to receive motion from the needle-bar and provided with a lug for moving in the slotted plate and with means for throwing the plaiting-blades, as set forth.

14. In a plaiter, the combination, with the blades, of the ratchet-wheel 0, having openings as described, the flexible support E, the slotted plate E, the tripping-lever F," for bearing against the ratchet-wheel and bending the flexible upright, and the L-shaped lever for receiving motion from the needle-bar and for rotating the ratchet-wheel, and provided with a lug extending through the slotted plate, with the lever E, connected to the plaiting-blade below and adapted to throw the same when connected to operate.

15. In a plaiting attachment for sewingmachines, the combination of the L-shaped lever, which derives its motion from the needle-bar having a pawl, a circular ratchet having an opening within its circumference, for the purpose set forth, a shield for covering the teeth on the ratchet-wheel and prevent ing their engagement by the pawl, a pivoted lever vibrated by said L-shaped lever, the plaiting-blade, and connections between said pivoted lever and the plaiting-blade, whereby the latter is moved by every stroke of the needlebar, as set forth.

16. In a plaiting attachment for sewingmachines, the combination, with the pivoted lever E, having the toothed rack and direct connection with the rattling-blade, and the arm G, pivoted to the lever E", and having a tooth for engaging any one of the teeth of forth.

17. In a plaiter, the combination,with a lever vibrated by the needle-bar, and a pivoted lever having connection with the plaitingblade, of a ratchet-disk rotated by the movement of the needle-bar, having a slot or cutaway portion for permitting a projection upon the lever which is vibrated by the needle-bar to engage at intervals with the lever which has connection with the ruffling-blade.

18. In a plaiter, the combination, with the vibrating L-shaped lever, the pawl carried thereby, and the circular ratchet, of a shield for covering any desired number of the teeth of said ratchet, a tooth carried by said shield, and a toothed rack with which the tooth on said shield engages, the teeth of said rack correspondin gin number and position to those on the circular ratchet, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

THOMAS L. MELONE.

Witnesses:

JOHN T. RAPER, GEORGE L. WOLFE. 

